Le véritable petit-déjeuner au sapin du Vermont

There is maple syrup, and then there is Vermont maple syrup served on a cold morning when breakfast is allowed to take its time.

The distinction matters.

Begin with pancakes or French toast—not overloaded with sugar, chocolate or elaborate toppings. Good butter and pure maple syrup should be enough.

Add thick-cut bacon or Vermont sausage, strong coffee and perhaps sliced apples sautéed briefly in butter.

Warm the syrup slightly before bringing it to the table. A small pitcher is infinitely nicer than placing a plastic jug beside the pancakes.

Vermont’s maple season traditionally arrives during the transition from winter to spring, when freezing nights and warmer days get the sap moving and steam begins rising from sugarhouses.

That ritual deserves to continue in the kitchen throughout the year.

Maple syrup is also far more useful than its association with pancakes suggests. Brush it lightly over roasted squash. Add a spoonful to baked beans. Whisk it into vinaigrette with mustard and cider vinegar. Use a touch in oatmeal.

The Vermont approach should be restraint: enough maple to recognize its unmistakable flavor without turning everything into candy.

And keep the imitation pancake syrup in the supermarket.

Some traditions are worth defending.