There is maple syrup, and then there is Vermont maple syrup served on a cold morning when breakfast is allowed to take its time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The distinction matters.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Begin with pancakes or French toast\u2014not overloaded with sugar, chocolate or elaborate toppings. Good butter and pure maple syrup should be enough.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Add thick-cut bacon or Vermont sausage, strong coffee and perhaps sliced apples saut\u00e9ed briefly in butter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Warm the syrup slightly before bringing it to the table. A small pitcher is infinitely nicer than placing a plastic jug beside the pancakes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Vermont’s maple season traditionally arrives during the transition from winter to spring, when freezing nights and warmer days get the sap moving and steam begins rising from sugarhouses.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
That ritual deserves to continue in the kitchen throughout the year.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Maple syrup is also far more useful than its association with pancakes suggests. Brush it lightly over roasted squash. Add a spoonful to baked beans. Whisk it into vinaigrette with mustard and cider vinegar. Use a touch in oatmeal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The Vermont approach should be restraint: enough maple to recognize its unmistakable flavor without turning everything into candy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
And keep the imitation pancake syrup in the supermarket.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Some traditions are worth defending.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
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